Many people today still think of Egypt as a desert country, which it is to a
large extent. But between its mainland Mediterranean coast, its long mainland Red Sea coast and the Sinai, it has an
impressive amount of beach area. In fact, despite Egypt's aggressive
construction of new beach resorts, the Sinai's western coast remains almost completely
undeveloped. However, a notable exception is Ras
Sidr, which is a very nice beach better known to Egyptians than foreign
travelers. It lies about sixty kilometers south of the Ahmed Hamdi Tunnel at the
gulf of Suez's northern end.
The eastern coastline and the southern tip of the Sinai have a number of
beach resort regions, though by far the most developed region is the region in
and around Sharm el-Sheikh. At the other end of the Gulf of Aqaba to the north, Taba has also seen
significant development, including an attempt to reproduce the success of
El-Gouna on Egypt's mainland Red Sea coast
in a project called Taba Heights. Between Taba and Sharm el-Sheikh, the major
resorts are found at Nuweiba and Dahab, but all along the eastern coastline of
the Sinai are a number of more primitive, though frequently popular, camp areas
intermingled with some better resort compounds.
Sharm el-Sheikh is a very different resort community for Egypt, more like one might find in Europe, or
even the US. Many of the main resorts are connected by a "boardwalk", which
allows one to walk along a path bordered by shops, restaurants, clubs and
hotels. There is excitement in the air here, particularly in the evenings when
various entertainment cascades down the walk, and it seems like the crowds
walking along speak in dozens of different languages.
The main beach areas at Sharm el-Sheikh itself comprise two adjacent bays,
known as Na'ama Bay and Sharm al-Maya. Of these, Na'ama Bay is the oldest
development and the location of the boardwalk. Here, hotels are just separated
from the beach by the boardwalk, with some facilities such as beach front
restaurants and bars built on the beach itself. Sharm al-Maya is less developed
with slightly more isolated beach resorts.
The resort community of Sharm el-Sheikh, usually simply referred to as Sharm,
is one of the two main beach havens in
Egypt, the other being the vicinity in and around Hurghada on the mainland
coast. While Sharm has a completely different flavor than Hurghada, it too
receives most of its visitors by European charters. Even though there have been
some very fine hotels built at Hurghada, and particularly at El-Gouna just north
of Hurghada (and in other areas around Hughada), Sharm el-Sheikh has always been
considered the most upscale of the two resort areas. In fact, one will find very
few hotels other than four or five stars in Sharm el-Sheikh, while those of Hurghada are
more varied.
However, if one wants it all, from the Hard Rock Cafe to the Four Seasons Hotel, from beautiful reefs and
crystal waters to almost a Las Vegas style atmosphere, then Sharm el-Sheikh has
to be the Egyptian beach resort of choice.
It is a world class spot to launch scuba diving expeditions, with crystal clear
waters and many nearby dive sites.
While Hurghada may still receive more beach tourists than any other region in
Egypt, Sharm is famous throughout the world as the "City of Peace", a very secure area where, not
infrequently, world leaders, attending summits, mix with the beach
vacationers, and one need not simply be limited to beach activities and world
class scuba diving. Sharm el-Sheikh hosted the first ever official European
professional golf tournament at the Movenpick Jolie Ville Course, and one may
also visit what is, perhaps, the most famous of Egypt's ancient, and still
active, monasteries known as St. Catherine's at the foot of Mount Sinai. For
nature lovers, there is also Ras Mohammed,
Egypt's best known and first National Park
just south of Sharm.
There is also, thirty-five miles north of Sharm, the Nabq Protectorate, the largest coastal park on
the Gulf of Aqaba, which includes the world's most northerly mangrove
forest.
Further up the eastern coast of the Sinai, about 85 kilometers north of Sharm, is
Dahab. At one time, Dahab had a bit of a reputation as sort of a hippie haven,
which time has not completely erased, though it now has grown up and matured
into more of a traditional beach resort. There are still beach camps here, but
there are now also some good hotels, Italian restaurants and other trappings of
tourism. There is a mixed variety of accommodations along a paved beachfront
path
Considerably further up the coast, after passing through the Ras Abu Gallum Protectorate, is Nuweiba, really
one of our favorite small beach communities. The atmosphere at Nuweiba is really
laid back and completely relaxing. It is, perhaps, not unlike some individual
camps along the beaches at certain spots, but at the same time, does provide a
little more in the way of accommodations and amenities, though only enough to be
utterly comfortable. Here, Bedouin boys lead their camels out in the surf to use
as diving platforms, while beach goers eat fish just caught by the same people
who cook it up and serve their patrons.
Nuweiba is divided into three parts. To the south is the port with its bus
station, banks and the one really upscale hotel, the Hilton Coral Resort. About eight kilometers
south of the port is the city center, which is spread out but contains a small
selection of tourists shops, a few restaurants and a small bazaar. Still a bit
further north is Tarabin, with a number of
small hotels and camp-like operations.
Further up the coast between Nuweiba and
Taba are a number of small beach camps, some
of which, while having fairly primitive accommodations and amenities,
nevertheless front exotic and beautiful beaches with stunning blue water. These
include, beginning from the south, Maagana
beach, Ras Shaitan and Mahash. Maagana Beach is located about eight
kilometers north of Tarabeen (the northernmost part of Nuweiba). Ras Shaitan is another two kilometers north of
Maagana. Of these beaches, Mahash, about twenty kilometers north of Nuweiba is by far the most developed, though
still a beach camp for the most part. Here, Basata is an eco-minded camp with
about 18 huts and a common kitchen, but there is also now the Tango Beach Resort, a four star hotel with 64
rooms. Mahash is about twenty kilometers north of Nuweiba. There are also
several hotels, such as the three star Awaki Beach hotel, and Club Aquasun,
which is a 72 room domed hotel with somewhat more amenities. Finally, a bit
further north, about 35 kilometers south of Taba is Bir Sweir, which is also a
small hut style camp.
Just prior to the actual city of Taba,
some seventeen kilometers to the south, is the massive new Taba Heights
development. This is a resort community being built by the same people who put
together El-Gouna, in much the same way. There is already a Hyatt Regency, a
Marriott and a Sofitel along with a golf course, and there will very soon be a
Three Corners El Wekala, if it is not now open. The Taba Heights
Inter-Continental is expected to open in 2005, and there will be at least
several other major hotels opening in the near future. Like El-Gouna, this
resort center is being planned with all of the amenities of El-Gouna, including
many water sports facilities including diving shops, as well as a casino.
In between Taba Heights and Taba itself is another small harbor named the
Fjod, with no real accommodations but a small restaurant and beach area. There
is also a small hotel called the Salah ad-Din
Hotel just a bit further on adjacent to Pharaoh's Island, just before
Taba.
Taba itself is a few hundred meters of beach, and only one real luxury hotel,
the Taba Hilton which was recently heavily damaged by a bomb attack. Taba sits
on the Egyptian-Israel border. In fact, all that separates the Israeli beach
resort of Eilat from Egypt's Taba is the border.
The hotel is actually a managed property of Hilton Hotels and not owned by them. In a
recent interview, Tour Egypt was advised
that the owner does intend to repair the facility, though no timetable has been
provided for such repairs. However, we were advised that the damage to the hotel
may not have been as severe as originally thought, and that the repairs will
probably take place as soon as possible.
The Sinai is really a wonderful place to
visit, with majestic mountains and scenery like nowhere else on earth.
As the Jerusalem Post noted in a recent article, "Israelis consider Taba, just across the
Egyptian border with Israel, part of their own backyard - partly because Israel
controlled the tiny enclave for 22 years, and Israelis built the hotel that was
wrecked by an explosion. Unfortunately, Taba, caters to many Jewish citizens,
and it was almost certainly them, and not tourists in general that were targeted
in the Taba attack. Nevertheless, the Egyptian government knows that, even
though Taba is relatively isolated from most other beach areas in the Sinai,
such an attack hurts tourism all over Egypt, and they will do everything in
their power to protect the resort, as well as others, from any future problems.
In fact, security in the region has already been stepped up considerably.
The location of the bombings are of some significance. The Taba Hilton sits right on the Egypt-Israel border, basically within meters of
the physical crossing. This was the largest of the blasts. The second one
occurred at Ras Shaitan, a fairly
undeveloped beach area on the northern side of a rocky spur that juts out into
the Gulf of Aqaba. The third explosion took place, not at Nuweiba as reported by
almost all news sources, but about ten kilometers north of the town. In fact,
one of these explosions did not cause much damage, we understand, because the
vehicle was prevented from reaching its destination by Egyptian Tourist police.
One interesting and relevant fact about these events is that places such as
Taba Heights was not affected, probably because larger resorts have additional
security, but perhaps also because there was less of a Jewish presence
there.
The bombings at and near Taba were the first such incident that has occurred
in Egypt in some years now and a pity according to just about everyone's
perspective. The incident killed and injured Muslims and Jews alike. Egypt
considers itself a country of peace, and rightly so. Though an American, I have
many friends in Egypt, and while I am not naive enough to think that there are
not bad people everywhere, in every country and of ever religious persuasion,
there are no more moderate, considerate and caring people than Egyptians. The
Taba bombing was an act that alienated those responsible from everyone, crossing
both borders and religions. Men such as those who performed this vicious act are
always misguided, but these particular men were even more so.
And while such incidents can happen in any corner of the world, obviously
including the US, the Egyptian government is
dedicated, above all else, to protecting its tourists. There is no doubt about
that, because tourism provides essential hard revenue to both the Egyptian
government and the people of Egypt, many of whom directly or indirectly support
their families through the tourist industry.
In the final analysis, Taba is not a major resort area for Egypt, really
having less facilities, for example, than even Nuweiba or Dahab. It is a nice area and, of
course, we can expect that Taba Heights some distance to the south, but not to
really be confused with Taba itself, will be a very major and secure facility,
as is El Gouna.